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Sept 2003 
 
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Logs & Stories -  September 2003

September 24, 2003 - San Carlos

(Email from Karryn via Internet Cafe)

Hurricane Marty

Just thought people might want to know that we survived Hurricane Marty here in San Carlos. Naomi and I spent the worst hours in the hotel, but thanks to the other cruisers walking the docks all night, Seafire and most other boats came through safely.

The previous Thursday, we saw Bill and Jackson off to Bellingham (they flew out of Tucson); Naomi and I spent a couple more days there getting more shopping and electronics repairs underway. We had no idea there was a hurricane until Sunday night at the TBC bus station, waiting to catch the bus back to San Carlos. The short bit they had showed it heading towards Cabo in a NW direction, so I was hoping that it would go outside Baja. Since the station was in Spanish, I had no idea what the forecast was.

I got around 3 or 4 hours of sleep on the bus (well, sort of -- in 30 minute bursts, waking up with a stiff neck each time!), and planned on catching the city bus back to San Carlos and napping the morning away. We dumped our bags on the boat and headed for Barnacle Bob's (and internet access), only to find out that Marty had changed course and was heading directly for San Carlos. So instead of napping, I spent the next 6 hours taking off the solar panels, tying up the main, putting out extra lines, loading up on water, putting chafing gear on all the lines (special thanks to Flint, who had lots to give me -- I only had enough for four lines and we had 9 places that dock lines ran through cleats). He helped me put a line from the boat to a palm tree on shore, something that proved essential later on, along with his adjusting it mid-hurricane to keep Seafire from taking out the dockbox with her port bow.

Once I was done, I tried to sleep, but the wind was increasing and taking my adrenaline levels up with it. So I called Bill, who told me to please stay in a hotel room. I acquiesced, knowing that if the predicted winds showed up, I would never be able to get both myself and Naomi safely off the boat and to high ground if the storm surge floated the docks off the pilings.

We stayed in the big hotel next to the marina, videotaping until it got too dark to see, staying safely under the overhang on our balcony to avoid the roof tiles that fell (only 2, but from 5 stories up). Our boat's mast was at one end of the clump of sailboats, so I could see how much it was moving around, which was frustrating and scary, because I couldn't leave Naomi to go tend to the boat. I had a handheld VHF with me, so I followed conversations until I passed out from fatigue, and even talked to someone on our dock for reassurance on how things were going.

Fortunately, the winds were lighter than predicted (highest gust in the marina here was 68 knots, but Marina Real had more wind and I'm sure it was more out in the bay). There were 11 boats beached, several of which have been pulled off and seem to be ok. Two were total losses, including a trimaran that someone spent at least a year restoring and only launched this January. Most of "O" dock is gone (where all the charter boats go, closest to the entrance on the north side), including one boat that tied up there and left -- still attached to the dock -- during the hurricane. The dredge also split in the middle of things, having to be fended off by people on the few boats left on moorings. Marina Real had much more damage, with cleats pulling out and a 60' boat that took off from its end tie in the middle of the hurricane and wandered around the marina.

The big palapa at the hotel pool collapsed, one of the little table / palapa combinations went over onto the sidewalk below, and a small part of "G" dock needs replacing. Most of the roller / plywood parts around the pilings were busted. Many of the ficus trees on the south walkway were listing (a couple nearly on the ground), but most of those have already been pulled up and staked. (And before I got good pictures!) I haven't been out of the marina, but I've heard that the parts of San Carlos close to the beach got hammered, with many first-story windows blown out and a lot of water and sand in buildings.

According to the ham and SSB nets, Marina de La Paz was devastated, with estimates of the destruction ranging from 75 to 90 percent. The only particulars I know are that T'n Honey is ok but that Novia (owner Neil) sank, and my impression is that there are other boats that sank as well. The report also said that they had winds of 105 mph for seven hours. The boatyard at Marina Palmira had boats fall over again, but only a few. Heck, even Marina Seca in San Carlos had boats fall over; according to the folks on another boat here, all those that fell were on the special hurricane poles.

Puerto Escondido also had boats that ended up on the beach, and Mayahana took off without owner Richard aboard, made it out the entrance and beached herself on Danzante. I haven't heard what sort of damage she sustained yet.

We are pretty happy with the way things turned out for us and Seafire, although I am hoping that this is the only hurricane the three of us (Naomi, Seafire and myself) ever have to go through.

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1 September - San Carlos

(Email from Karryn via Internet Cafe)

Yes, we are alive, despite the lack of web updates.

We didn't die on the way to the South Pacific, because we never left. Having spent 6 weeks more than planned in the northern part of the Sea of Cortez last summer, we managed to stay behind schedule around 6 weeks all winter long. We doggedly pushed on all through early spring, trying to be ready to leave for remote atolls, only to decide we were too late to do so safely. About two days later, the first named tropical storm showed up, crossing what would have been our path on the way to the Marquesas.

In the meantime, the tenants in our house decided that owning was better than renting. However, they wanted a post-remodel house (meaning not ours), and set about finding one. We discovered that if we didn't sell in the next year, we would pay taxes on the profit. Having no interest in living in a big city and, knowing the further we were away, the harder it would be to deal with owning a house in Seattle, we decided to sell. So we spent another month in Mazatlan, setting everything up so that the house could be sold without us returning to the states. (Thanks, Yvonne!) Once that was arranged, we left for the Baja side of the Sea.

We enjoyed a month of cruising, made even more enjoyable by the quick and profitable sale of the house. However, we noticed two things that made cruising a little less enjoyable than last year: the water was cloudy (no looking through 25' of water to see every link of the anchor chain) and the weather was humid (clouds, even some rain, and chubascos crossing the Sea from the mainland). We weren't too uncomfortable, but the thought of having to deal with violent thunderstorms wasn't thrilling.

Eventually, we headed north so we could cross the Sea and pick Arlyn up. By this time, there had been enough bad weather that we were a little skittish. Turns out we should have been more skittish: as we were sailing north to Bahia Concepcion, an unusual chubasco that formed on the Baja side ended up generating lightning that hit the mast, destroyed most of the electronics on the boat and blew a small hole in the outside of the veneer when it exited the boat. None of the people were hurt, something we are very thankful for, especially given that the lightning hit right when a big wave threw me against the mast.

After a couple of days trying to figure things out (many thanks to the folks on Pizzaz for letting us use their e-mail!), we crossed to San Carlos without incident. It was not without anxiety, as I watched the thunderheads build over the mainland all day, hoping that we would not have to endure another chubasco, only to have the clouds all blow away. Sometimes an anticlimax is just fine with me!

Arlyn delayed her arrival a week, and the kids and I took off for Maine to visit my parents, despite the fact that there was no room in the marina for the boat. Leaving Bill on the boat, alone and at anchor, was unsettling and had I known the weather for the next week, I never would have left. San Carlos was chubasco central; the first one to hit lasted for hours with torrential downpours, sheet lightning and gusts up to 66 knots (and that was in the marina, which is sheltered from the worse winds). Needless to say, Bill lost a lot of sleep those nights, and future plans do not include ever leaving the boat in anything but a safe location.

I managed to bring back a couple of replacement items, and Bob and Annette on S/V Jake brought back more, as well as some underwater epoxy in case we needed to temporarily patch the spot the lightning exited. So far, we've had the GPS repaired and replaced the battery monitor and solar panel regulator. The SSB and all its accessories are up in Tucson getting repaired, and about 5 more items will be heading north to either be repaired or replaced.

Given that the first hurricane to head up in the sea was early this year, we are planning on staying tied to a dock until it's safe to head south. We still have much work to do, and Marina Seca (the boat yard and dry storage) canceled our haulout date to repair the exit hole (they normally won't haul multihulls but we thought we had convinced them our boat wouldn't fall apart, as others have). So the days pass, all with challenges, and we try to muddle through them.

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